Jessica Wray

After studying international business while getting to live and work in both Argentina and Ecuador, I moved to South Korea to teach English. Now an aspiring travel writer and teacher by day but a foodie, traveler and daydreamer by nature.

May 192013
 

You don’t have to look far to find something picture worthy in India.  From the bizarre, the beautiful, the unique or even the straight out dirty, India becomes a photographer’s (or Instagramer in this matter) paradise.

Below are a collection of Instagrams I snapped over the 5 weeks we were in the country traveling from Kochi to Kolkata. Continue reading »

May 072013
 

Need to catch up on Part I?

Day 3: 11 km. 350 meters up to Poon Hill. From Ghorepani, another 355 m. up and 585 m. down.

Our 4:30am alarm was not alone.  As we slid out of bed we could hear the rustling of jackets and packing of bags through the paper-thin walls that separated the rooms.  In complete darkness we set out to reach the climax of the trip—the summit and viewpoint of Poon Hill.  Unfortunately, the 45 minute hike uphill wasn’t easy or relaxing.  We were accompanied by herds of other people, and like livestock we all tried to fit into the narrow hiking paths.  Some hikers weren’t going to let the crowded trail stand in their way, and they pushed through as we tried to navigate the steps in the dark.  This, combined with all the laser beam headlamps which always seemed to be piercing our eyes, made for a grouchy 5am walk. Continue reading »

May 022013
 

Another month of travel has come and gone, and as I sit here with a sugary Burmese canned coffee and the AC on high, I’ve come to realize one thing: thank goodness I’m documenting all of this.  In the last month, we have flown to Nepal, seen Mount Everest, done a trek, gone back to India overland, flown to Bangkok, celebrated Songkran and flown to Yangon, Myanmar.   It took me a few minutes to remember all of that. Most of it seems hazy and I don’t know if I could keep track of it without my travel notes, the travel budget and my travel buddy. Continue reading »

Apr 292013
 

If there is one thing Nepal is known for, it’s trekking.  One-third of the entire Himalayan range is located within Nepal and it also claims 10 the of the world’s 14 tallest mountains. It wasn’t until 1950 that the country opened its borders to foreigners, and ever since people been have coming to  conquer the peaks.

With all of this in mind, it seemed completely senseless to visit Nepal without doing a trek, but there was one problem. Simon and I were no where near prepared! For one, we didn’t have any appropriate gear or trekking clothes and we both hadn’t worked out in months.  After some research, we reluctantly convinced ourselves to embark on the Poon Hill/Ghorepani trek which could be done in 4-5 days and was one of the shortest overnight treks possible.  Still, this seemed like ages to be hiking.  The night before the trek I wasn’t even so sure that I wanted to do it, and I was most excited for the final day when it would be over!

Oh, how I was wrong.  Continue reading »

Apr 132013
 

I had no idea what to expect upon arriving in Nepal. This was evident from the moment we stepped foot in the country– we had no idea about the cost of visas or the currency accepted. We have successfully managed to wing our way around the country though, from celebrating Holi in Kathmandu to completing a 5 day trek with almost no appropriate gear. One main thing we have learned about traveling in Nepal is that it isn’t a typical backpacker destination. It’s not really the place you just decide to put on your itinerary like we did, assuming it’ll all be cheap, hoping to do some cool things and maybe go on a trek. For most people traveling here, they have been planning, saving and preparing for months. Continue reading »

Apr 032013
 

A quintessential stop on any tour through India, the Taj Mahal is supposed to be all it’s cracked up to be, and for some people, more.  But it’s hard to not have expectations of something so hyped-up and touristy.

As I entered through the red brick gates, I wasn’t overwhelmed with awe or shock, rather, I just felt a sense of calm. “Yup, it looks just as good as the pictures.”

We entered the grounds around 7am and roamed around the area taking photo after photo (I mostly took photo after photo) while trying to stay away from the crowds. When we entered the Taj to see the actual mausoleum, I soon felt anxious and bored.  It was plain compared to the outside, and I felt an urge to get out and see the facade again as soon as possible.  In between photos on the famous bench, (for Simon the Princess Di bench, for me the Oprah bench) we took long pauses to stare at the building as the sun rose  to our right.  I made sure to take a few more photos and give it a few more glances before leaving for good that morning. Continue reading »

Mar 302013
 

I was suspicious of the Aditya guesthouse manager before I even saw him. I didn’t like being called “friend” in an email when asking for room prices. I especially didn’t like him requesting me to like the guesthouse’s Facebook page before he sent the necessary information. Unfortunately, we were at a loss for budget options in Sawai Madhopur, the town closest to Ranthambore National Park, and didn’t feel comfortable showing up empty handed this time. Our biggest concern visiting this town was one, spotting a tiger in the National Park, and two, finding a cheap place to stay while we did so. Continue reading »

Mar 252013
 

Last night, Simon and I reflected on how we have already been gone for a month. We can’t believe how fast it has gone by, but at the same time, our flight into Kochi International Airport seems like ages ago.

It is still weird to think about the fact that we are actually on this trip. I anxiously waited for so long, and sometimes it still feels surreal to actually be doing it. The best part is- we still have so much more to go. By the time you read this we will have left New Delhi on a flight to Nepal! For about two and a half weeks we will be hanging out in Kathmandu and Pokhara before heading back into India overland.

Me cold, grouchy and waiting to leave Korea!

Even though I did a lot of research and somewhat knew what to expect before arriving, India still surprised, excited and confused me. Nepal on the other hand feels like unknown territory.  All I really know is that it has three things: the Himalayas, prayer flags and notoriously bad roads!

The Budget

Back in Korea, I did my best to figure out a “realistic” budget for this trip. Going off that original estimate of $22 a day in India, plus extra amounts for tours, special trips and nightlife, 30 days  would cost us $935 each.  Prior to the trip we also purchased 2nd class AC train tickets (one of the more expensive budget options) for 4 overnight journeys which came out to $91 each.  So, the amount I would have allowed myself to spend (and hoped to stay well under) was $1,026 in 30 days.

One Month in India: February 21-March 21

The Actual Numbers:

  • Planes: 0
  • Trains: 7
  • Buses: 12
  • Scary tuk-tuks: too many
  • Camels: 2
  • Cities: 11
  • Safaris: 3
  • Places with bed bugs: 1
  • Bouts of minor Delhi-belly: 2
  • Fights: 0 (bickering: countless)

The Taj- one of India’s most expensive attractions for foreigners. 750 rupees ($13) to enter.

The Actual Costs:

In total, we have spent about $1309. This comes out to $654 each!

  • Daily average:  $49.70 total,  $24.85 each.
  • Average cost of double accommodation: $12.30 (could be much cheaper, we splurged a few times.)
  • Average daily price of all meals (not including water and snacks): $13.80 total, $6.90 each.
  • Average price for a large Kingfisher $2.76. Expensive

*I should note that we did get a few things free due to our blogs this month and the amount would have come out to an extra $60-70 each*

The breakdown for one month in India, two people:

One Month Spending

Costs of traveling in India:

As you can see, we spent much less than we imagined.  When I did the initial budget, I knew India would be cheap but I had no idea to what extent. I also didn’t want to constrict us to a budget we couldn’t stick to, so I overestimated. Interestingly enough, we could have done this month even cheaper if we tried harder!

We weren’t always strict with our budget. If we wanted a more expensive meal or room, we went for it. Usually a few more dollars got us a bigger room or a ginormous dinner, so it was hard to say no. Also, our “vacation mentality” had a lot to with our somewhat relaxed spending. Many backpackers we met, especially solo travelers, were on much stricter budgets and were able to get by on a few hundred rupees less each day. This means they haggled for room prices more than we did, didn’t worry about finding rooms with wi-fi and were staying away from the more touristy restaurants.

Traveling as a couple has its economical advantages in India. Most budget accommodation is mostly of the guesthouse variety, and real backpacker hostels are almost non-existent. Being able to share the cost of every room has also allowed us to spend a little more for a few more comforts.

One of our splurge rooms. About $20 a night with TV, hot water and wi-fi.

One issue we have encountered in India are the “tourist prices”. Taxi drivers, guesthouse owners and even tourist sites all raise their prices for foreigners. Fixed prices are also few and far between and most things, even room prices, will be somewhat bartered for. Many times, we have had no idea if the price we paid was fair or a complete rip-off. It can be draining to never know how much something should cost. Lonely Planet can be helpful to gauge prices sometimes, but often we have found the guidebook to underestimate the amount we have paid for tuk-tuks and recommended restaurants.

For current updates on my trip, follow along on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter!

Have you been to India? What was your daily budget?

Mar 202013
 

Two Canadians, two Germans, Simon and I bumped along in the back of the “Trotters Camel Safari“ jeep as we headed off into the Thar desert. With turban in tow, Simon was certainly prepared but I felt slightly hesitant. The tour we chose was the “off the beaten path” option, and happened to be one of the most expensive camel safaris in Jaisalmer. We had convinced our two new Canadian friends to come along with us on this tour, so I felt partly responsible if it didn’t meet expectations. Continue reading »

Mar 162013
 

I always knew I’d make it to India in my lifetime, but it was always a matter of ‘when’. Hearing stories about Hindu mythology, maharajas and ancient temples sparked my imagination but stories of dead body parts in the street, rampant flies and poverty made me think realistically. For a place as complicated, diverse and drastically different as India, I wanted to be ready to soak it in.

You could also say I hyped it up.

Jain Temple in Chittorgarh.

Now, after having been traveling around India for almost four weeks, I can say that it really has been amazing. We had a slow start though, and while in Goa and Mumbai I was afraid India wouldn’t meet my expectations.  Now having explored some of Rajasthan, my expectations have been exceeded. Continue reading »

Mar 102013
 

When you hear the term “backwaters,” especially in India, images of slim infused water and plastic bag jellyfish enter the mind.  Taking a tour of these backwaters sounds even more somber.  I originally imagined floating through canals behind small houses on a small motorized and smoggy boat.

Fortunately, the backwaters are nothing like that.  Unfortunately, I think all the trash is harboring around Mumbai.

In South India, the backwaters of Kerala are a network of lagoons, lakes and canals making an area greater than 900 km.  Both man-made and natural, fresh and salt, the backwaters are a result of the 38 rivers which feed into the Arabian sea.  A few towns are dispersed around the water, but for the most part, a forest of palm trees blankets the area. Continue reading »